If your teak furniture has spent a few seasons outdoors without maintenance, you may be looking at a surface that’s gone from warm golden-brown to gray, and possibly developed some black streaks, green patches, or a slightly rough texture. The good news: teak is extraordinarily forgiving. In most cases, furniture that looks tired or neglected can be restored to a near-original appearance with a few hours of work and the right products.

Here’s exactly how to do it.

First: Assess the Condition

Before you start, understand what you’re actually dealing with:

• Light gray weathering with no stains — the easiest case, just surface oxidation. A light clean and some teak oil will have it looking like new.
• Dark gray or black streaks — often mildew or tannin stains from wet conditions. Requires a teak cleaner.
• Green patches — algae growth, common in humid or shaded areas. Teak cleaner handles this too.
• Rough or raised grain texture — normal for weathered teak. Light sanding will smooth this down.
• Structural damage (deep cracks, splintering, broken joints) — beyond restoration products; may need professional attention or joint repairs.

What You’ll Need

• Teak cleaner (two-part formulas work best for heavily weathered pieces)
• Soft bristle brush (a deck brush or large scrubbing brush)
• Garden hose or bucket of water
• Fine-grit sandpaper (120–180 grit) or teak-specific scrubbing pad
• Teak oil or sealer (if you want to maintain the golden-brown color after cleaning)
• Rubber gloves and eye protection

Step 1: Remove Cushions and Hardware (If Possible)

Remove seat cushions, and if you can easily detach any metal hardware or hinges, do so. You want to clean the wood itself without soaking metal hardware unnecessarily.

Step 2: Rinse the Furniture

Before applying any cleaner, rinse the furniture thoroughly with clean water. This removes loose dirt, dust, and surface debris that could scratch the wood during scrubbing. Let it air briefly—you want the wood damp but not soaking wet.

Step 3: Apply Teak Cleaner

For most weathered teak, a teak cleaner (Part A of a two-part system) is the most effective product. Apply it generously to the surface, working it into the wood with a soft bristle brush in the direction of the grain.

Let the cleaner sit for the time specified by the manufacturer (usually 5–15 minutes) without letting it dry out completely. For heavy black staining or mildew, apply Part B of a two-part teak cleaner—this is typically a brightener or oxalic acid solution that neutralizes discoloration and lifts stubborn stains.

Step 4: Scrub With the Grain

Using your brush, scrub the surface firmly but not aggressively—always in the direction of the wood grain, not across it. Scrubbing across the grain damages the wood fibers and creates scratches that are visible once the furniture dries.

Pay extra attention to grooves, joints, and edges where dirt accumulates. Don’t forget the undersides of horizontal surfaces, which are often dirtier than the top.

Step 5: Rinse Thoroughly

Rinse the furniture completely with clean water, making sure no cleaner residue remains. Cleaner left on the surface can cause streaking or interfere with any oil or sealer you apply later.

Step 6: Let It Dry Completely

Allow the furniture to dry in the sun for at least 24–48 hours before proceeding. Teak must be completely dry before you apply oil or sealer—applying product to damp wood traps moisture, which can lead to mildew or uneven absorption.

Step 7: Light Sanding (If Needed)

If the surface still feels rough or slightly raised after drying, a light pass with 120–180 grit sandpaper will smooth it down. Sand with the grain only, using long, even strokes. Wipe away all dust with a clean dry cloth before proceeding.

This step is optional if your furniture already feels smooth after cleaning.

Step 8: Apply Teak Oil or Sealer

If you want to restore and maintain the golden-brown color:

• Apply teak oil or sealer with a clean cloth or brush, working with the grain.
• Apply one coat, let it absorb for the time specified (usually 30–60 minutes), then wipe off any excess oil that hasn’t been absorbed. Leaving excess oil on the surface causes it to go tacky.
• One coat is usually sufficient. A second coat can be applied after 24 hours if the wood still looks dry or uneven.

Prefer the silver-gray look? Skip this step entirely. Your cleaned and lightly sanded teak will naturally weather back to silver over the next few months of outdoor exposure.

Maintenance Going Forward

Once you’ve restored the furniture, a simple routine keeps it looking good:

• Once or twice a year: Wash with mild soap and water using a soft brush. Rinse and dry.
• Every 1–2 years (if oiling): Reapply teak oil or sealer after the annual clean, once the wood is completely dry.
• As needed: Spot-clean any mildew patches with a diluted teak cleaner before they spread.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Using a pressure washer — it’s too aggressive and will raise the grain and damage wood fibers.
• Scrubbing across the grain — always go with the grain.
• Applying oil to damp wood — always wait for complete drying.
• Using generic furniture polish or linseed oil — these aren’t formulated for teak and can cause buildup, uneven color, or mildew issues.
• Leaving residue on hardware — wipe stainless steel hardware clean immediately after working near it.

Teak’s ability to be restored is one of its greatest advantages over other materials. An aluminum chair that’s corroded or a synthetic wicker set that’s brittle can’t be meaningfully restored—they need to be replaced. A teak piece that looks tired simply needs attention.

Anderson Teak furniture is built for decades of outdoor life. Explore our full collection at andersonteak.com.